Sitting Around The Campfire - RVFirePoker

Winter RV Camping - Come Home Alive

2012-01-18T12:00:00.000-08:00

Courtesy of rv-camping.org

Hello Happy Campers! It's been quite a while since I've added a post to this blog, so thought I had better get moving again. I am adding this article to the blog because in many cases we all tend to let little things slip when RV’ing. But if you ever get caught in winter weather someday, this refresher article just might help you stay alive.

Most folks feel pretty comfortable and self assured when it comes to their personal safety while winter RV camping. For one thing, RV’s have safety equipment such as electrical system fuses and circuit breakers, and detectors for carbon monoxide (CO) and propane leaks. These devices are designed to protect equipment and possibly save your life when functioning properly. Winter RV camping add elements into the mix of safety that you need to take into consideration and remember because detectors, fuses, circuit breakers etc. can fail putting your life in jeopardy.

One of the biggest winter killers both in homes and camping environments is carbon monoxide (CO). 4 years ago in January while volunteering with the Needles BLM Field Office, we found a dead man that had started a charcoal grill inside his vehicle for heat. People die every year from trying to use charcoal and propane heat inside homes and vehicles, including recreational vehicles.

Portable electric generators can fill an RV with CO under the right conditions. There was recently a report of a tragic accident where the exhaust of a portable generator was too close to the slide out of a neighboring RV killing its occupants. Running vehicle engines for engine heat is another killer under the right conditions. A leaky exhaust system, or a system blocked by dirt or snow piling up during a storm can raise CO very quickly. Keep in mind sudden snow storms may block the vents on furnace, water heater or refrigerator.

OK, so you don’t use your grill inside to keep warm. But some RV’ers use their propane powered ovens or cook tops for warmth instead of turning on the furnace. Or, in some cases, no furnace is available for warmth. Two things are happening here. Oxygen is being burned during the combustion process, and CO is being emitted at the same time. It is possible in a tight fitting area like an RV to deplete the oxygen, or build up lethal levels of CO quicker than you might imagine. Just a couple hours of heating with an oven can cause toxic levels of CO.

Vent less propane heaters are popular and according to their manufacturers, safe to use in enclosed areas such as recreational vehicles. If you plan on purchasing one of these units, make sure it is rated RV, not just “indoor”. RV’s by design are tight fitting so ventilation is more critical. With the ability to heat areas without the use of electricity, recreational vehicle and tent campers have a safe heat source with a few provisos, quid pro quo, or in other words, within limitations.

All propane operated appliances emit CO plus a host of other toxic chemicals, and use oxygen. Provided adequate ventilation is provided, “safe” levels of CO can be achieved, but for those of you that are health conscious, extended use of vent less heaters can build up low levels of CO that may adversely affect you.

Be sure that your water heater, refrigerator, and furnace vents are clear of obstruction and operating properly. These gas powered appliances all have a recommended maintenance schedule and you need to follow it for proper equipment operation. Be sure you have propane/fuel for those gas powered appliances you will be depending on for heat and cooking.

A fire in an RV will probably burn the unit to the ground, and you will be lucky to escape with your life if one starts while you are inside. Many materials used in recreational vehicle construction are combustible and fires spread very quickly. A proper fire extinguisher located near the galley is essential in case of a grease fire. Not all fire extinguishers are for the same type fire. Get the right type! Remember portable heaters can malfunction, or something left close may catch fire. Your smoke detectors must have fresh batteries.

Have you, or someone else added electrical devices to your RV such as stereo equipment, communication devices, pumps, etc.? If so, is the wiring installed correctly and did you make sure the new load on circuits won’t cause an unsafe overload and cause an electrical fire? Adding a portable electric heater to already heavily loaded circuits may overheat wiring. If you are not sure, find somebody to help you figure it out…your life may depend on it.

Getting stuck in bad weather in remote country can be the end of you. There are newspaper stories every year about people that took a short cut, or hunters caught by a snowstorm, that died from exposure. If you are heading into remote country, make sure someone knows where you going. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and don’t take chances. Don’t bet your life on your cell phone. Power outages from a storm can kill cell service over a wide area. Staying dry and warm is essential in cold weather. Wet clothing saps heat away from your body causing hypothermia. Stay with your vehicle in all cases. Go prepared. Carry a shovel and tire chains at the very least. Learn winter survival techniques. Winter driving can be dangerous, exercise extreme caution on slippery roads. RVs are heavy and react differently than smaller vehicles on icy roads.

Are you willing to bet your life on those safety devices in your RV? Are the batteries good? Do you know the history of the vehicle to ensure that things have not been modified in an improper way that may bypass safety systems? Do you follow manufacturer recommendations concerning ventilation or electrical circuit loads? Does somebody know where you are? Does your vehicle have an emergency road kit?

Most winter camping involves campfires. Don't forget that treated woods used for outdoor use, fiberboard, and plywood products including wood paneling are manufactured with glues or other compounds that are toxic when burned. Make sure your fire is completely out before going to sleep or leaving your campsite.

These are just a few of the important safety precautions you should take when winter RV camping. Winter RV camping isn't for everyone, but by being cautious, educated, and prepared, the adventurous can be rewarded with some of the best camping experiences.

The Zen of the campfire or Why can’t I stop staring at the flames?

2010-10-26T11:21:00.000-07:00

The Zen of the campfire or Why can’t I stop staring at the flames?
By: The Happy Camper (in an attempt to be semi-humorous)

I’m not sure where to start with this so I figure I’ll just keep typing and something useful will pop out. I have been an avid camper most all my life from Boy Scouts to living in the jungles in Southeast Asia. Now I live a more comfortable existence, preferring to stay out in the woods in a wood and aluminum box (more commonly known as an RV).

I’ve had plenty of time to reflect upon my life and my purpose for existing on this planet. I have had many “near death” experiences in my lifetime, so I feel that with my time left, I should spend it to better myself and Mother Earth in any way I can. The term “Pay It Forward” comes to mind. Also, just a FYI...I must say I do enjoy a glass of wine or three sometimes.

What does all this have to do about campfires (finally you say)? I’m just trying to set the scene for the rest of this article. I can only best write of my own experiences.

Here goes... Has this ever happened to you (I thought so)?

It’s 6:30 Friday evening. Because you couldn’t get off work early, you are now just pulling into your campground. Dinner was taken care of thanks to McDonalds. Now it’s time to quickly set up camp before it gets too dark to see.

Right, camp’s set up, now time to relax. No wait, need to quickly build a campfire and set your chairs out around it. You’re not truly camping until that deed is done! This is just like at work… always having to keep doing something! You came here to relax didn’t you?

OK, camp is set up, stomach is full and the fire is built. You pour a glass of your favorite beverage, sit down and let the heat and flames slowly engulf you. Only then do you let your mind slow down and start to wander. Within five minutes, this act alone has allowed your mind to slow down from moving about 110 MPH to about 60. The more you stare at the campfire, the more you start to unwind, Your shoulders start to droop a little and the tension in your neck starts to diminish. Nothing known to Mankind can do this to a person (other than potent drugs of course) so fast and so completely. What causes this phenomenon?

Well, in my opinion only, here’s the answer, and I’ll reveal it below. However, I realize some of you are saying… “Who cares why, so long as it works”. If that’s you, thanks for your time, you might as well go read some other article.

OK, I want you to visualize a chalkboard. On it directly in the middle of the board, draw a line (To answer your question, I don’t care how long or how thick a line, any line will work). That line represents how our brain responds to stimuli (sorry, technical term, promise not to do it again) and how much stimuli we can manage. Let’s call it the stress bar. I believe it should sit at about the 50% line (your line you just drew), somewhere in the middle between no stress whatsoever and all the stress you can possibly endure without a meltdown and going postal.

When events in our daily life are consistently manageable, challenging but not overwhelming, picture your brain riding that 50% line or maybe slightly above (go ahead, draw another line slightly above the 50% line. It will make you fee good). All is good, right?. So long as you can consistently ride that line, you can expect a long, happy and prosperous life (ouch, I sound like a Trekkie).

For the 99% of us who don’t fit that profile, realistically we will be resting somewhere between the 70% to 80% positions (Yes, go ahead and draw a line there, doesn't feel very good does it?).

There are to many causes for this happening to mention, but here are a few: Kids (everything about them from getting them fed, off to school, daycare, picking them up, making sure they’re safe, feeding them again, keeping boys away from your daughters, feeding them again… and so on), work (fear of losing your job, getting too old, competition from the new 20 year old who just recently graduated from Harvard, downsizing, not enough hours to do the work assigned, overwhelmed because you have to learn new ways of performing your job and so on), Home (am I doing everything I can to ensure my spouse and kids love me and I am protecting them? Dang, it’s going to cost another $1,600.00 to repair the roof! How am I supposed to pay for it?). Personal (is that another gray hair? I’m loosing hair faster than I can keep up, I’m too fat, I need to start my diet soon. Darn it, why do they have to make sweets taste so good?) You know the rest. Stress is everywhere around us, and to be frank there aren’t that many ways to eliminate it.

OK, back to the bar and our campfire. Think of your campfire as an empty bucket. As you stare at it and start to “unwind” a little, you start to see shapes. Admit it! It may be a certain animal, maybe an exact likeness of Teddy Roosevelt, or a symbol. No matter what, I’d be willing to bet (not money of course) that as you read this, you are shaking your head up and down (meaning agreeing with me).

What is happening (in my humble opinion) is that stress bar is starting to slowly lower (yes, of course you can draw a down arrow on your imaginary chalkboard). As more and more of your stress starts to empty into that bucket (we call a campfire), interesting things start to happen.

We start to see things which are bringing us that stress in a different light. Perhaps the solution to a problem at work magically appears, maybe you realize that just because your hair is falling out it’s not the end of the world and that bald men really are sexy (yes I’m “balding”). Maybe you finally realize that your son actually is a creature from outer space put here to see how much food can be consumed by one person before the family needs to declare bankruptcy. No matter what this issue, solutions start to appear. On your second beverage you start to figure out how to implement your solutions.

All of a sudden, that stress bar is at the 50% level or maybe even slightly below (move that down arrow on down). Yes, of course it will go back up Sunday when you have to pack up, head for home and get ready for another work week. But at least for a couple of days you were able to sit by the campfire and solve some of your immediate problems.

It’s amazing what a couple pieces of wood and a match can do for our sanity. Can’t solve all of your problems in just a couple of days, need to save some for next weeks trip! Until then, keep your wood dry, don’t forget your kindling and keep your favorite beverage in stock.

Winter Battery Storage & Maintenance

2010-01-05T08:59:00.000-08:00

This is a reprint from blog.rv.net. I didn't write it, but having been one who lost their rv batteries due to Winter weather, I thought we could all benefit from this article.

Winter Battery Storage & Maintenance
by Mark Polk

I was recently asked a question and felt like the answer could be useful to lots of RVers, so I am using the question as the topic for this article.

Q: Hi Mark, we live in Colorado and we are preparing our RV for storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to store my RV batteries. Any advice would be appreciated.

A: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce, when they’re charging, is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear safety glasses and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery next spring. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required, before charging a battery, is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80% state of charge. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12-volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6-volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. Battery equalizing is a controlled overcharge on a flooded lead acid battery after it has been fully charged. Equalizing reverses the buildup of negative chemical effects like stratification, a condition where the water and acid separate and the acid concentration is greater at the bottom of the battery than at the top. Equalizing also helps remove some of the sulfate build up on the battery plates. Equalizing is fine as long as there is not excessive heating or electrolyte boiling over. Some battery chargers have an equalization cycle or charge setting. After charging a battery, set the battery charger on equalizing voltage and charge it again. You need to test the specific gravity every hour during equalizing. Equalization is complete when the specific gravity readings no longer rise during the gassing or bubbling stage. Keep in mind if equalizing a battery is done correctly the electrolyte should not boil over but it will create a good bit of bubbling, and when the cycle is finished you will need to add distilled water to the cells.

Note: If you don’t feel comfortable working on or around lead acid batteries have battery maintenance done by an authorized service center.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. If your RV converter charger charges the battery(s) at a constant rate (around 13.5 volts) this is too high for a float charge and can deplete the electrolyte over time. In this situation plug the RV in periodically and allow the converter charger to charge the battery(s) for 8 to 12 hours. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

North to Alaska - The Great Adventure!

2010-01-05T08:10:00.000-08:00

Hello all you fellow campers and RV'ers. I am looking for your feedback.

Around this coming July, 2010 (I know a while from now), I will be driving up to Anchorage for a 2 week vacation. It will be myself and my trusty Black Lab Cooper. I'll be hauling my 28' fifth wheel, departing from Portland, Oregon (our home).

I've never been to Alaska before, and wanted to start my semi-retirement off with a bang. Can any of you tell me of your adventures there? What should I do to prepare for the trip? What should I expect on my roadtrip adventure? Any wonderful RV parks along the way I should know about?

What about the pitfalls I should avoid? Any rookie mistakes I could prevent? I plan on driving around 400-500 miles a day up, and then take my time heading back to Portland.

Any ideas, stories or advise you have, I am more than open to receive them. My hope is that your feedback might serve as a guide for other travellers heading North. I plan on blogging my adventures on the road, so your thoughts on Internet and cell service is also appreciated. Well, that's it! Please share with us your words of wisdom.

The Happy Camper

How to Safely Build a Campfire

2009-12-07T10:33:00.000-08:00

This might sound a little basic, but you would be surprised at how many people who have built campfires... have their own little horror stories about the experience. Maybe they thought that adding a little lighter fluid before lighting that damp wood would help... Maybe the small fire flared up into a larger than expected campfire... Well, you get my gist. The folks over at CampingRoadTrip.com gave me permission to reprint their article on the subject. It's a great refresher for all of us campfire experts. Thanks to Hsiu Mei and Julian.

How to Safely Build a Campfire
written by Ellen Duxbury

For many people, camping just wouldn’t be camping without a campfire. A place to gather and relax after a busy day of outdoor activities; to keep you warm, to toast your marshmallows or even cook your meals on, a campfire can be one of the best things about camping.

Building a campfire

Follow these 7 steps to build a great campfire safely:

1. Find a suitable spot for your campfire.

• First, check with the campsite to make sure fires are allowed

• Build your campfire at a least 10 feet from sleeping and eating areas. Clear an area of at least 3 feet on all sides of the fire to help prevent inadvertent lighting of other materials that could be near. Keep people at least 3 feet from the fire's flames.

• Use an existing, preferably campsite provided, fire ring. Or even better, build your fire in a metal fire pan (available at outdoor shops), which helps to control the flames and leaves no trace of a fire.

• Look out for an area that is well sheltered as wind can spread fires.

• Never build a fire so close to a rock, tree or cliff face that it blackens the surface. Nobody likes to look at charred wilderness.

2. Gather your firewood

• You will need kindling (twigs/small sticks, shaved wood, dried leaves, grass or paper) sticks and logs or large pieces of wood.

• It is important that the materials are dry and that you use only fallen branches, rather than those taken from living trees. Not only is this environmentally unsound, but the wood will be too green, rather than dry. Also, try not to use rotted wood, which is often damp in its center.

• Some parks and wilderness areas even forbid gathering fallen material, which plays an important role in the ecosystem, so if you are staying at a park check with the ranger first, otherwise you will have to bring your own materials from outside the park.

3. Put a couple of handfuls of kindling rolled into a ball into the center of the fire ring.

4. Arrange the small sticks in a pyramid or tepee shape around the kindling.

• There needs to be space to allow oxygen to circulate and let the fire breath, so don't build it too densely.

• Leave a small opening so that a match can reach the kindling beneath.

5. Light the kindling with a match (or you can use a disposable lighter).

• Your kindling should burn first and then spread to the pyramid of sticks.

• Make sure the flames of the kindler are burning directly underneath the wood to give it a chance to light.

6. Once the sticks have taken light, gradually add increasingly larger sticks and then logs as the fire grows in strength.

• Never just toss the logs onto the fire try to maintain the tepee shape at least initially.

• Leave space between the wood for the fire to breathe.

7. If your fire has trouble lighting, add more kindling and small sticks.

• Carefully blow around the base of the fire to help it grow.

• If you are having real difficulty or you have poor conditions for starting a fire, you can use fireplace starters, which are sold in brick form and can be bought almost anywhere.

• If you need to move any of the burning logs around, find a long thin stick like piece of wood to poke it with. Never do it with your hands or other body parts.

Putting out your campfire

Any fire that's started also needs to be put out. You should extinguish your campfire before you go to bed or before you leave the area. The safest and easiest way to do this is to pour water over the fire. If it still smokes after the addition of water, throw a few shovels of dirt on top.

The "Low Down" on keeping pesky mosquitoes away!

2008-08-28T11:38:00.000-07:00

OK, I admit it. I'm a mosquito magnet. What can I say! Those pesky critters love me. As a result, I've been forced to do some research on the subject. Here is what I found. I hope it helps some of you readers (by the way, this is working out to be a long post. Sorry about that!).

Some General Facts:

- Wear light clothing; mosquitoes are attracted to dark colors. And try to wear long pants and long sleeves to prevent being bitten. Citronella candles can also sometimes be beneficial, but DEET is the most effective repellent.

- Mosquitoes have complex methods of detecting their targets and different types of mosquitoes react to different stimuli. Most mosquitoes are active at dawn and dusk, but there are also mosquitoes that seek their targets during the day.

You can avoid being bitten by making sure you aren't attracting mosquitoes by:

- Using attractants to lure mosquitoes elsewhere
- using a repellent
- avoiding actions that diminish the effectiveness of the repellent.

What Mosquitoes are attracted to:
(Don't shoot the messenger here. I'm just reporting what I found)

Use this list of items and activities that attract mosquitoes as a list of things to avoid or that can be used as bait to lure mosquitoes away from you.

Dark Clothing - Many mosquitoes use vision to locate hosts from a distance. Dark clothes and foliage are initial attractants.

Carbon Dioxide - You give off more carbon dioxide when you are hot or have been exercising. A burning candle or other fire is another source of carbon dioxide.

Lactic Acid - You release more lactic acid when you have been exercising or after eating certain foods (e.g., salty foods, high-potassium foods).

Floral or Fruity Fragrances - In addition to perfumes, hair products, and scented sunscreens, watch for the subtle floral fragrance from fabric softeners and dryer sheets.

Skin Temperature - The exact temperature depends on the type of mosquito. Many mosquitoes are attracted to the slightly cooler temperatures of the extremities.

Moisture - Mosquitoes are attracted by perspiration because of the chemicals it contains and also because it increases the humidity around your body. Even small amounts of water (e.g., moist plants or mud puddles) will draw mosquitoes. Standing water also allows mosquitoes to reproduce.

Some Natural Repellents:

These natural products should effectively repel mosquitoes, but they require more frequent re-application (at least every 2 hours) and higher concentrations than DEET. Because of the differences between types of mosquitoes, products that contain multiple repellents tend to be more effective than those containing a single ingredient.

As you can see, natural repellents tend to be volatile plant oils.

- Citronella Oil
- Lemon Eucalyptus Oil
- Cinnamon Oil
- Castor Oil
- Rosemary Oil
- Lemongrass Oil
- Cedar Oil
- Peppermint Oil
- Clove Oil
- Geranium Oil
- Another plant-derived substance, pyrethrum, is an insecticide. Pyrethrum comes from the flowers of the daisy Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium.

Things that Lower Repellent Effectiveness:

- Many Sunscreens
- Dilution from Rain, Perspiration, or Swimming
- Absorption into the Skin
- Evaporation from Wind or High Temperatures

Keep in mind that 'natural' does not automatically imply 'safe'. Many people are sensitive to plant oils. Some natural insect repellents are actually toxic. Therefore, although natural repellents provide an alternative to synthetic chemicals, please remember to follow the manufacturer's instructions when using these products.

OK, confused now? Full of despair?

In my humble opinion, there is really one option which works almost every time; repellents which contain DEET! There have been many reports about the safety of DEET (and as with any product... used outside the manufacturers recommendations, they can cause harm).

Here are some safety (and common sense thoughts) that we all should be aware of:

The EPA recommends the following precautions when using insect repellents:

- Repellents should be applied only to exposed skin and/or clothing (as directed on the product label). Do not use under clothing.

- Never use repellents over cuts, wounds, or irritated skin.

- Don't apply to eyes and mouth, and apply sparingly around ears. When using sprays do not spray directly onto face; spray on hands first and then apply to face.

- Do not allow children to handle these products, and do not apply to children's hands. When using on children, apply to your own hands and then put it on the child.

- Do not spray in enclosed areas. Avoid breathing a repellent spray, and do not use it near food.

- Use just enough repellent to cover exposed skin and/or clothing. Heavy application and saturation is unnecessary for effectiveness. If biting insects do not respond to a thin film of repellent, apply a bit more.

- After returning indoors, wash treated skin with soap and water or bathe. This is particularly important when repellents are used repeatedly in a day or on consecutive days. Also, wash treated clothing before wearing it again.

- If you suspect that you or your child are reacting to an insect repellent, discontinue use, wash treated skin and then call your local poison control center. If/when you go to a doctor, take the repellent with you.

If you know of any remedies which work every time, please post them for all of us to benefit from.

Well, that's it. Hope this helps. Let's take back our woods!

The Happy Camper

Do hot dog / marshmallow forks make you sick?

2008-08-26T09:40:00.000-07:00

OK, here's the scenario. It's late at night, you're sitting around the campfire and you get the munchies. We all know nothing meets the challenge better than a brot. You search around in the dark for your hot dog stick only to find it's been lying in the dirt next to you where it got put after last night's munchie attack. Wait! The kids cooked some marshmallows last night and it's covered with burnt goo!

No worries, you put the hot dog stick forks into the fire to kill the germs for a few seconds and then cook away. All is good, right?

That night or when you return home from camping, you get stomach cramps and spend a lot of time in one particular room of the house, RV or camp ground more than you should have to. Why?

Something to think about: Last night you put a piece of meat (a brot or two) on your hot dog stick, cooked the meat, pulled it off onto a bun and then placed your stick where you hope to find it for next time. No time to clean the stick because you want your brot to be hot.

All night and the next day that residue from the brot (and marshmallows) sits on the hot dog stick forks and create bacteria, germs and who knows what else. It just sits there waiting for the next victim to consume those bacteria and germs left by the last person who used the stick.

You need to heat your hot dog fork to 165 degrees before you kill any bacteria which reside there. By putting the fork into your campfire for a few seconds (or more), you still have the residue there, but at least you shouldn't get salmonella from it. Of course if you do that, the forks will be too hot to put anything on them until they cool down.

If you don't "sterilize" the forks via the campfire, keep this in mind. Most all hot dogs are pre-cooked. That means for the most part, when roasting them you only really cook the outside, and only heat up the inside. Where the hot dog sits on the fork, it never reaches the temperature of 165 degrees. That means the bacteria is never killed. That means it is transferred from the fork... to the meat... to your stomach...

I suppose I am being a little anal about something which is done almost as a rite of passage (cooking hot dogs and marshmallows over the campfire). I'd rather not let my kids get sick because I didn't provide them with a safe and clean eating environment.

I think there is a better idea. Check out the Hot Dog Stick Attachment on our website. Yes, it's self serving, but we created this tool to help create a safer (and cleaner) environment during our camping stay. Just wash it with soap and water (with the rest of your dishes), and you're ready to go for the next time. You'll have the confidence that you won't be contributing to that late night stay at the restroom.

Long live the late night brot feast!

The Happy Camper

Can we ever get enough RV'ing and camping?

2008-08-22T11:11:00.000-07:00

I DON'T THINK SO!

I not sure about you, but for me, it seems like 10 - 12 hour days are the norm... not the exception. With that said, one place where I find solace is around the campfire. I love to share tales and trade jokes, barbs and generally gab about life in general.

Have you ever sat around a campfire and let your mind wander about anything and everything... but work? Ever find solutions to those nagging problems? No need to pay for an expensive shrink. For the price of a few pieces of firewood and a match... all your problems are solved (at least for the time being).

I love to RV. Used to be tent camping, but this old body just can't take sleeping on the stone cold ground anymore. We have a group of fellow RVers and true friends we go camping with. RVing allows us to get outside and travel across the state (or country), visiting places we'd usually never make a special effort to go.

Lately, we've been focusing our RVing trips around wineries. For those of you outside of Oregon, the state has become the mecca for hundreds of wineries. We like to collect wine glasses from each winery we visit. Each couple in our group buys a bottle of wine which we then have wine tasting and appetizers before dinner. Does it get any better? OK, a good game of horseshoes might trump it.

Yes, paying over $4.00 for a gallon of gas is horrible! (By the way, if you drink bottled water, you're paying way more than $4.00 per gallon of water; a resource which is abundantly available.... and free!).

Yes the State Parks system is increasing their overnight stays, however it's still worth the cost when you consider the solice, fun and comraderie you get. Try getting that staying in a hotel.

I'm not much of a writer, however I'll try to make at least weekly entries into this blog. I welcome your comments (good and bad). Until then, happy RV'ing and camping.

The Happy Camper